Unearthing Bordeaux

Breaking down one of the most popular wine regions in the worlds with regards to its terroir, grapes and classifications.

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Bordeaux is one of the most coveted wine regions in the world. A region that is synonyms to top tier, top quality red wines that sit on the top of the list of fine wines across the world and cost a fortune to possess and produces great quality affordable wines.

Let’s dive into the details of the region with regards to the terroir, regions, and grapes from this prestigious region.

The name Bordeaux derives from au bord de l’eau, meaning “along the waters.” Bordeaux lies within the French region of Aquitaine, a word whose Latin roots mean a well-watered place. An Ideal Location for making wines.

• Bordeaux falls 45 degrees North of Equator, which is between 30-50 degrees North. Perfect location to grow grape vine vitis vinifera.

• Situated around rivers Dordogne and Garonne that join to become Gironde that fall into the Bay of Biscay.

• A beautiful maritime warm climate. Warmed by the Gulf stream to temper the rain and water abundant region.

• Multiple terroirs in the region give a varied exposure for different grapes to grow. In general terms; a warmer and well drained gravel rich soil on left bank and a clay rich, cooler and richer soil on right bank.

Breaking Down Bordeaux

Bordeaux is a large landscape and is broken down with reference to the three rivers. Bordeaux is pretty much cut in half by the Gironde Estuary (where the Dordogne and Garonne rivers meet). The left side of Gironde is called the “Left Bank”, the right side is called “Right Bank” and the lesser-known middle part, known as “Entre-deux-Mers.

The wine styles change in most of the sub regions but have a hint of geological singularity when divided in these three areas.

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In Bordeaux; the Soil Dictates

Left Bank

Left bank is further distributed into two major areas: the Medoc and Graves and Sauternes.

Soil is majorly gravel (small pebbles or stones) of varying thickness, a result of the Pyrenees’ erosion by the Garonne. These soils, made up of pebbles, gravel and sand from the interglacial periods, have great drainage and capabilities to retain heat, helping to ripen the grapes.

The stone pebbles in fact absorb the heat during the daytime and slowly release it during the cool nights. The considerable water surface of Gironde allows to calm harsh winters by reflecting the sun light.

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Medoc is mostly gravely with the highly classified Chateau’s situated on slightly elevated rolling hills. Hilltops are made up of pebbles and gravel cemented by clay-rich sands. Best vineyards are situated pretty much on the bank of Gironde.

Graves area is named after the dominant soil type, gravel. Deposited by the Garonne, it is gravel and pebble, often mixed with sand and clay.

The vineyards of Sauternes enjoy high-quality soils; chalky, gravelly soils that are white in color.

Right Bank

The popularity of the Right Bank is essentially linked to two top tier appellations: Saint-Emilion and Pomerol. But it includes Saint-Emilion’s satellite appellations, Fronsac, Canon-Fronsac and all the Côtes de Bordeaux appellations.

While the right bank is majorly clay dominant; it also has other varied styles of soil.

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Pomerol is spread over the ridge of the Saint-Emilion plateau. There are deep deposits of sand, gravel, pebbles, and clay, with a deposit of clay between Petrus and Certan. The finest quality of Pomerol is in the center of the appellation. The terroir that is of a mix of gravel and clay. This is one of the areas which has the highest clay in the entire Bordeaux region.

Saint-Emilion and its satellites; have fossil rich limestone on the slopes which lead down to the Dordogne (to the south of the town). Here lie several very high-quality châteaux (Ausone, Bélair, La Gaffelière, Pavie) with stones, molasse and sands form very well-draining soils on steep slopes, conditions which are particularly encouraging to vine-growing.

Canon-Fronsac and Fronsac have a terroir which is very similar to that of Saint-Emilion, with a slightly thinner layer of limestone.

Côtes de Bourg is composed of three lines of hills parallel to the Dordogne and the Gironde; facing very different directions, with a solid subsoil of limestone. The wines are full-bodied, with character and marked tannins.

Blaye is divided into two parts. Principally clay-limestone the south-east is, with most of the limestone and produces rather light reds, whereas the north-west, with silica, sand, gravel and poor soils, is geared to producing white wines.

Entre-deux-Mers

Entre-deux-Mers is the ‘poor cousin’ of Bordeaux. As far as terroir is concerned, there is great diversity, with limestone towards the Dordogne, clay-rich areas to the north-west of the region, and gravelly areas, in the Graves de Vayres appellation to the north of the Entre-deux-Mers.

The Grapes of Bordeaux

Bordeaux is an example of superlative blending of high-quality grapes. While the grapes grown in the region is pretty much same in Right and left bank, its is the soil that dictates what grows better in which area.

The left bank is generally said to be Cabernet Sauvignon domination while the right bank is said to be Merlot dominating.

For Reds

Merlot (66%), Cabernet Sauvignon (22.5%), Cabernet Franc (9.5%), Carménère, Malbec, and Petit Verdot (together 2%)

Merlot

Merlot rules the Right Bank of Bordeaux. In St.-Emilion and Pomerol, especially, it can yield plush, ethereal wines of supreme elegance, as displayed in the trophy wines of Pétrus and Châteaus Le Pin and Lafleur.

Merlot is a difficult grape to grow well, as it sets and ripens unevenly. Nevertheless, it’s popular around the world. Classically styled Merlots are supple, medium-weight wines with velvety tannins, primary fruit flavors of plum, cherry, raspberry and blackberry, and spice and herbal hints.

Cabernet Sauvignon

Cabernet Sauvignon reigns on Bordeaux’s Left Bank. It grows well in many appellations, and is capable of rendering wines of uncommon depth, richness, concentration, and longevity. Some of the world’s most coveted Cabernet Sauvignon–based wines come from the Médoc appellations of Pauillac, Margaux and St.-Estèphe.

Cabernet produces wines of great intensity and depth of flavor. Its classic fruit flavors are black currant, blackberry, plum and black cherry. It can also be marked by spice, like star anise, as well as tobacco, cedar, and licorice.

The best Cabernets feature firm acidity, a full body, great intensity, concentrated flavors and firm tannins.

Cabernet Franc

Cabernet Franc is typically a supporting grape in Bordeaux. Even though when it’s a parent to Cabernet sauvignon and comprises about half the blend of the great Château Cheval-Blanc and a good proportion in Ausone and, Angélus, in the Right Bank's St.-Emilion appellation.

Cabernet Franc has a wide range from light- to medium-bodied to as intense and full-bodied. Its currant and berry aromas and flavors often stray into herbaceous notes, which can become more pronounced with age.

Petit Verdot

This is an intense varietal; this tannic varietal is used to add beautiful coloring in Bordeaux blends. You’re unlikely, however, to see a single varietal wine due to the overpowering nature of the tannins.

For Whites

Sémillon (45%), Sauvignon Blanc (43%), Muscadelle (5%), Colombard, Merlot Blanc, Sauvignon Gris, Ugni Blanc (together 7%)

Sauvignon Blanc

Sauvignon Blanc is grown in many regions of Bordeaux. It is a key part of the blend in the dry whites of Graves and the Médoc and an important grape in the sweet wines of Sauternes.

Sauvignon Blanc grows well in many appellations, marries well with oak and blends well with Sémillon. It is generally crisp and refreshing, with primary fruit flavors of citrus, apple, gooseberry, and notes of lemongrass, peach, honeysuckle, and herbs. It matches well with food and is less expensive to produce than many other popular grapes.

Sémillon

Sémillon is Sauvignon Blanc’s blending partner in Bordeaux’s dry white and sweet dessert wines.

Sémillon, is highly susceptible to Botrytis cinerea, or noble rot; a mold that shrivels grapes and concentrates their sugars. These prized botrytized grapes yield luscious dessert wines. When blended with Sauvignon Blanc, Sémillon adds body, flavour, and texture.

A Rare Occurrence

The Council of Wine in Bordeaux ; in December 2020, decided to allow several additional wine grapes into Bordeaux blends.

In Red Bordeaux: You may now see up to 10% Arinarnoa, Castets, Marselan or Touriga Nacional.

In White Bordeaux: You may now see up to 10% Alvarinhho (aka Albariño) and Liliorila.

The Blends of Bordeaux

“Right Bank” Bordeaux

The Libournais or “Right Bank” as it’s informally named, makes wines with Merlot as the main grape. Wines from the Right Bank are known to be bold, but because of the higher proportions of Merlot, they tend to be slightly smoother, with more subtle tannin.

Libournais region grapes: Merlot (usually over 60% of the blend) and Cabernet Franc

“Left Bank” Bordeaux

The “Left Bank” of Bordeaux contains two main regions, Médoc and Graves. On the Left Bank, Cabernet Sauvignon is the king in blends, lending the wines a peppery flavor and bolder tannins.

Médoc and Graves region grapes: Cabernet Sauvignon (usually over 60% of the blend), Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Carménère, Malbec, Petit Verdot and (last three usually under 2% of the blend).

White Bordeaux

Bordeaux Blanc is primarily a blend of Sémillon and Sauvignon Blanc and a bit of Muscadelle and/or Sauvignon Gris. Bordeaux Blanc accounts for less than 10% of Bordeaux wine production, but they’re still famous, especially for the rich golden-hued sweet wine called Sauternes.

The Classifications of Bordeaux

GRANDS CRUS CLASSÉS EN 1855 MÉDOC & SAUTERNES

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Not only the most historic but also the most enduring classification in the timeline of wines. Commissioned by Napoleon III for the 1855 Exposition Universelle in Paris; the landmark creation of the classification set the benchmark for wine quality around the world. Published on April 18, 1855; these sixty-one reds of the Médoc and twenty-seven whites of Sauternes are considered the crème de la creme in the world.

The Classification stands as below:

Mighty Reds A total of 61 Crus. 60 crus from the Médoc and 1 cru from Pessac-Léognan (Château Haut-Brion) based on five categories: 5 Premiers Crus, 14 Deuxièmes Crus, 14 Troisièmes Crus, 10 Quatrièmes Crus, 18 Cinquièmes Crus.

Luscious Sweet Whites 27 crus of the Sauternes and Barsac appellations: 1 Premier Cru Supérieur, 11 Premiers Crus, 15 Deuxièmes Crus.

Only Revision: In 1973, Château Mouton Rothschild was promoted from the rank of Deuxième Grands Cru Classé to that of Premier Grand Cru Classé (Médoc) PREMIERS CRUS

Château LAFITE-ROTHSCHILD – Pauillac Château LATOUR – Pauillac Château MARGAUX – Margaux Château MOUTON ROTHSCHILD – Pauillac Château HAUT-BRION – Pessac

Château Mouton Rothschild

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DEUXIÈMES CRUS

Château RAUZAN-SÉGLA – Margaux Château RAUZAN-GASSIES – Margaux Château LÉOVILLE LAS CASES – Saint-Julien Château LÉOVILLE-POYFERRÉ – Saint-Julien Château LÉOVILLE BARTON – Saint-Julien Château DURFORT-VIVENS – Margaux Château GRUAUD LAROSE – Saint-Julien Château LASCOMBES – Margaux Château BRANE-CANTENAC – Margaux Château PICHON BARON – Pauillac Château PICHON LONGUEVILLE COMTESSE de LALANDE – Pauillac Château DUCRU-BEAUCAILLOU – Saint-Julien Château COS d’ESTOURNEL – Saint-Estèphe Château MONTROSE – Saint-Estèphe

Château Cos d'Estournel

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TROISIÈMES CRUS

Château Lagrange

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Château KIRWAN – Margaux Château d’ISSAN – Margaux Château LAGRANGE – Saint-Julien Château LANGOA BARTON – Saint-Julien Château GISCOURS – Margaux Château MALESCOT SAINT-EXUPÉRY – Margaux Château BOYD-CANTENAC – Margaux Château CANTENAC BROWN – Margaux Château PALMER – Margaux Château LA LAGUNE – Haut-Médoc Château DESMIRAIL – Margaux Château CALON SÉGUR – Saint-Estèphe Château FERRIÈRE – Margaux Château MARQUIS d’ALESME BECKER – Margaux

QUATRIÈMES CRUS

Château Beychevelle

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Château SAINT-PIERRE – Saint-Julien Château TALBOT – Saint-Julien Château BRANAIRE-DUCRU – Saint-Julien Château DUHART-MILON – Pauillac Château POUGET – Margaux Château LA TOUR CARNET – Haut-Médoc Château LAFON-ROCHET – Saint-Estèphe Château BEYCHEVELLE – Saint-Julien Châtaeu PRIEURÉ-LICHINE – Margaux Château MARQUIS de TERME – Margaux

CINQUIÈMES CRUS

Château Lynch Bages

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Château PONTET-CANET – Pauillac Château BATAILLEY – Pauillac Château HAUT-BATAILLEY – Pauillac Château GRAND-PUY-LACOSTE – Pauillac Château GRAND-PUY DUCASSE – Pauillac Château LYNCH-BAGES – Pauillac Château LYNCH-MOUSSAS – Pauillac Château DAUZAC – Margaux Château d’ARMAILHAC – Pauillac Château du TERTRE – Margaux Château HAUT-BAGES LIBÉRAL – Pauillac Château PÉDESCLAUX – Pauillac Château BELGRAVE – Haut-Médoc Château de CAMENSAC – Haut-Médoc Château COS LABORY – Saint-Estèphe Château CLERC MILON – Pauillac Château CROIZET-BAGES – Pauillac Château CANTEMERLE – Haut-Médoc

26 Sauternes and Barsac Crus PREMIER CRU SUPÉRIEUR Château d’Yquem, Sauternes, AOC Sauternes

Château d'Yquem

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PREMIERS CRUS

Château LA TOUR BLANCHE – Sauternes Château LAFAURIE-PEYRAGUEY – Sauternes Clos HAUT-PEYRAGUEY – Sauternes Château de RAYNE VIGNEAU – Sauternes Château SUDUIRAUT – Sauternes Château COUTET – Barsac Château CLIMENS – Barsac Château GUIRAUD – Sauternes Château RIEUSSEC – Sauternes Château RABAUD-PROMIS – Sauternes Château SIGALAS RABAUD – Sauternes

Château Guiraud

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DEUXIÈMES CRUS

Château de MYRAT – Barsac

Château DOISY DAËNE – Barsac

Château DOISY-DUBROCA – Barsac

Château DOISY-VÉDRINES – Barsac

Château d’ARCHE – Sauternes

Château FILHOT – Sauternes

Château BROUSTET – Barsac

Château NAIRAC – Barsac

Château CAILLOU – Barsac

Château SUAU – Barsac

Château de MALLE – Sauternes

Château ROMER du HAYOT – Sauternes

Château ROMER – Sauternes

Château LAMOTHE – Sauternes . Château LAMOTHE-GUIGNARD – Sauternes

THE GRAVES CLASSIFICATION

The Graves classification took place in 1953, almost 100 years after the official 1855 Classification of Bordeaux wine. It was updated in 1959 with the addition of four white wines Châteaux Couhins-Lurton, Couhins, La Tour Martillac and Malartic-Lagravière, and two reds, Châteaux Fieuzal and Pape Clément. It has only one classification level, no hierarchy; this classification is not subject to revision. CRUS CLASSÉS DE GRAVES

Château Haut-Bailly

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Château Haut-Bailly, Léognan

Château Carbonnieux, Léognan

Domaine de Chevalier, Léognan

Château de Fieuzal, Léognan

Château Olivier, Léognan

Malartic-Lagravière, Léognan

Château Latour-Martillac, Martillac

Château Smith-Haute-Lafitte, Martillac

Château Haut-Brion, Pessac

Château La Mission-Haut-Brion, Talence

Château Pape-Clément, Pessac

Château Latour-Haut-Brion, Talence

Classified White Wines of Graves:

Château Bouscaut, Cadaujac

Château Carbonnieux, Léognan

Domaine de Chevalier, Léognan

Château Olivier, Léognan

Malartic-Lagravière, Léognan

Château La Tour-Martillac, Martillac

Château Laville-Haut Brion, Talence

Château Couhins-Lurton, Vilenave d`Ornan

Château Couhins, Vilenave d`Ornan

THE SAINT-EMILION CLASSIFICATION Starting in 1954, The classification has two principal tiers: Grand Cru Classé and the higher-level Premier Grand Cru Classé. The latter is further subdivided into tiers (A) and (B).

The decree states that the INAO must revise the classification every ten years. Six classifications have been established since 1954. 2 Premiers Grands Crus Classés A, 12 Premiers Grands Crus Classés and 71 Grands Crus Classés.

2 PREMIERS GRANDS CRUS CLASSÉS Château Figeac (A) Château Pavie (A)

Château Figeac

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12 Premiers Grands Crus Classés

Château Beau-Séjour (héritiers Duffau-Lagarrosse) Château Beau-Séjour-Bécot Château Bél Air-Monange Château Canon Château Canon la Gaffelière Clos Fourtet Château Larcis Ducasse La Mondotte Château Pavie Macquin Château Troplong Mondot Château Trottevieille Château Valandraud

Three of the prestigious producers; Château Angélus (A), Château Ausone (A) and Château Cheval Blanc (A) withdrew from the classification questioning the credibility of the classification.

THE CRUS BOURGEOIS CLASSIFICATION

The 1932 classification designated 444 estates as Cru Bourgeois but by the 1960s over 300 had been absorbed into other estates or had converted their land away from viticulture.

For a chateau to be in the Crus Bourgeois Classification, it must come from one of the 8 appellations in the appellation of the Medoc that covers the Left Bank. The communes are: Pauillac, St. Estephe, Margaux, St. Julien, Moulis, Listrac, Haut Medoc and the Medoc.

They split the wine into three tiers:

Cru Bourgeois Exceptionnel.

Cru Bourgeois Supérieur.

Cru Bourgeois.

Of the 490 châteaux that applied for Cru Bourgeois status the Alliance accepted only 247. In the final reckoning there were 9 Crus Bourgeois Exceptionels, 87 Crus Bourgeois Supérieurs and 151 Crus Bourgeois. They account to 40% of Medoc’s wine production.

THE CRUS ARTISANS’ CLASSIFICATION

In the Médoc, the term “Crus Artisans” has officially existed for over 150 years: these small wineries often belonged to craftsmen, such as coopers, wheelwrights, and blacksmiths.

Cru Artisan sits just below the Cru Bourgeois classification and collects 50 wine estates. The various Chateaux are in the Médoc, Haut Médoc and related appellations in the area such as Margaux, Saint Julien, and Saint Estèphe.

These are all family-owned estates that are committed to quality wine production, with eco-friendly agriculture, traceability, and many other strict conditions. The owner is responsible for his wine, bottling must be done at the Chateau and the wine must be tasted every year by the Cru Artisan classification body.

Conclusion

Bordeaux is a never ending topic, here i tried to get you close to the region with regards to how the region classifies itself and hoe the geography of the area influences the grapes and wines.

With regards to the classification, its not compulsory to remember all the chateau names but for students I suggest to know at least the top tier and prominent ones

I have a special inclination and love for Bordeaux, more interesting things coming ahead.