A region that has France and Germany on either sides, had a perilous history; a timeline of war that effected the lives and the wines of the region. The region has been battered between the two countries between two world wars and various moments when it became part of either of the countries.
Alsace is a region with influence of two mega empires. The French department with an influence of two famed German grape varietals Gewurztraminer and Riesling; there are other varietals as well but these two rule the terrain. The Romans were probably the first to realize this land was prime for growing wine. Throughout history, Alsace has been both one of the most prized wine regions and utterly devastated by politics and war. Today, Alsace is back on top, producing some of the world’s most desirable wines. Personally, Alsatian whites for me have been wines with most superlative structure and style.
The Terroir
Alsace is defined by the Vosges Mountains in the west and the Rhine River in the east. The Vosges protect the vineyards from rain and extreme cold, making Alsace the second driest region in France. Combined with 1800 hours of sunlight per year and excellent soil, the wines are exceptionally high quality, expressing the unique terroir of the region. Alsace also has the largest number of organic and biodynamic producers.
The region can be found in the very eastern side of France in a valley along the Rhine River – a river that separates France and Germany. On the other side of the river is Baden, a German wine region that produces wines in a similar style. The region is broken up into two parts:
The Bas-Rhin (to the North, by Strasbourg) and Haut-Rhin (to the South in low slopes of the Vosges Mountains)
The Bas-Rhin is actually to the north and the Haut-Rhin is in the south, but the difference is all elevation. The best vineyards have long been associated with the Haut-Rhin. In the Haut-Rhin is where you will find many of the prestigious Alsace Grand Cru vineyards.
What makes the region more special is the soil types. Alsace is house to one of the most varied soil types out of any other region in France or even in the world. Alsace boasts 13 soil types; hence it’s said that, if you walk even 100 meters in any direction you will find a different soil type.
Appellations of Alsace
AOC Alsace
It was recognized as a PDO (Protected Designated Region) in 1962, produces 74% of total wine with 90% being white wines. The Alsace AOC requires that no less than 100% of the grape variety labeled be used.
As stated in the beginning the region had its effects of war; while the first decree to establish AOC’s were in 1935, the talks with INAO suspended during the Second World War after Alsace was annexed to Germany.
AOC Alsace is for wines made with grapes from parcels having precisely stipulated boundaries based on historical growing areas. The Alsace AOC includes white, rosé and red wines; while there are different white varietals, the rosés and reds are made with Pinot Noir. The AOC is also allowed to label dessert wines as “Vendanges Tardives” and “Sélection de Grains Nobles”. In Alsace AOC chaptalization is allowed (a method where sugar is added to fermentation), but most of the producers are moving away from this winemaking technique.
In 2011, 'AOC ALSACE was improved with two geographical names: the Communales (villages) and the "Lieux-dits (localities)."
Communales (Villages)
This name meets the stringent production standards which are more restrictive than for regional appellations: varietals planted, vine density, pruning, trellising, grape maturity, yields. 14 communes or inter-communal entities were also given defined boundaries and can be indicated on labels in addition to the AOC Alsace: Bergheim, Blienschwiller, Côtes de Barr, Côte de Rouffach, Coteaux du Haut-Koenigsbourg, Klevener de Heiligenstein, Ottrott, Rodern, Saint-Hippolyte, Scherwiller, Vallée Noble, Val Saint-Grégoire, Wolxheim.
Lieux-dits (Localities)
The "lieux-dits", with even stricter regulations, are delimited according to a particular terroir which offers, in addition to the fruity character of the grape variety, a minerality specific to its soil and terroir.
This allows to distinguish quality production by highlighting the terroir-specific characteristics, and applying production standards even more stringent that for the Communal appellations.
Crémant d’Alsace AOC
With 22% of production, it is one of the fastest growing style in Alsace. The AOC was established in 1976. At the end of the 19th century, several Alsace-based wine-making businesses produced sparkling wines using the traditional method. This usage was less prevalent during the first half of the 20th century but was continued until the creation of AOC Crémant d’Alsace.
These wines can be single varietal or a blend produced by a traditional method. This is the only wine where Chardonnay can be used. Pinot Noir is the only grape variety used to produce Crémants d’Alsace rosés. It is also used to produce Blancs de Noirs as the skin of Pinot Noir grapes is dark but its flesh is very pale nearly colourless.
Alsace Grand Cru AOC
51 terroirs classified according to the strict geographical and climatic criteria, compose the mosaic of Alsace Grands Crus. The lieux-dits were recognised in 2011 as being distinct appellations, as up until then they had been categorised collectively in the AOC Alsace Grand Cru.
Wines made from these exceptional terroirs represent nearly 4% of the total production of the wine-growing area. They are allowed to use a single variety or blend just four official grape varieties. In Alsace, people commonly refer to the varieties as the Noble Grapes of Alsace and they are: Riesling, Pinot Gris, Muscat, and Gewurztraminer.
Grand Cru vineyards must meet the following requirements of the Alsace Grand Cru system:
The vineyard must yield 55 hectoliters per hectare or less.
The vineyard must be at an altitude between 200–300 meters.
The wine must come from a single-named Grand Cru vineyard (called a lieu-dit in Alsace).
The Grand Cru vineyard name must be on the Alsace wine label.
The Grand Cru wines of Alsace usually have higher minimum alcohol levels which require much riper grapes. The best sites in Alsace are on the low southern and southeastern facing slopes where they get the most sun. The Grand Cru’s of Alsace are rich, honeyed and age-worthy.
Out of all the Grand Cru’s, Zoztenberg in the Bas-Rhin is the only one with an allowed Sylvaner wine. Within this particularly large vineyard (close to 40 acres) there is also a plot of Pinot Noir, which can’t be classified as an Alsace Grand Cru AOC.
The 10 most famed Grand Cru vineyards are:
Listed below are the 51 Grand Cru’s of Alsace
Altenberg de Bergheim (Bergbieten) Altenberg de Bergheim
Altenberg de Wolxheim Brand
Bruderthal Eichberg
Engelberg Florimont
Frankstein Froehn
Furstentum Geisberg
Gloeckelberg Goldert
Hatschbourg Stallion
Kaefferkopf Kanzlerberg
Kastelberg Kessler
Kirchberg de Barr Kirchberg de Ribeauvillé
Kitterlé Mambourg
Mandelberg Marckrain
Moenchberg Muenchberg
Ollwiller Osterberg
Pfersigberg (Pfirsigberg) Pfingstberg
Praelatenberg Rangen
Rosacker Saering
Schlossberg Schoenenbourg
Sommerberg Sonnenglanz
Spiegel Spurs
Steinert Steingrubler
Steinklotz Vorbourg
Wiebelsberg Wineck-Schlossberg
Winzenberg Zinnkoepflé
Zotzenberg
Grape Varietals and Styles of Alsace
The wines and packaging are consumer friendly and approachable with most of the wines being single varietal. Showing potential of the grapes in wines that are dry, lean and refreshing to intense and full bodied. It’s the only region in France that mentions the grape varietal on the label.
There are seven main varieties grown in Alsace: Riesling, Pinot Gris, Pinot Blanc, Gewurztraminer, Muscat, Pinot Noir, and Sylvaner. Well let me be very honest, white wine from Alsace are pretty much the best for me personally. The aroma profile, palate and structure cannot be seconded.
Fresh, Dry and Refreshing
Riesling d’Alsace
A pale yellow hue with bright green tints. A fine and elegant fruit and floral elements like lemon, grapefruit, peach, pear, fruit compote, lime blossom and white florals. Wines from selective Grand Cru’s and Lieux Diets also show some herbal and mineral aromas like fennel, liquorice, cumin, flint, kerosene etc. It is a wine is lively and complex as soon as it hits your palate with an ability to age for decades. The most grown grape in Alsace with around 21.9% of total volume produced.
Pinot Blanc d’Alsace
A pale yellow colour. A delicate wine from the same family of grapes as Pinot Grigio but with more complexity and body, I predict once you try a Pinot Blanc from Alsace you’ll never drink Pinot Grigio again. The nose is fresh and subtly fruity with hints of peach, apple and floral nuances, without being exuberant. The wines readily open-up on the palate. Its well-balanced acidity produces pleasant and light-bodied wine.
Sylvaner d’Alsace
The colour is clear with green hints underlining its characteristic freshness. The bouquet is subtly fruit and floral: citrus fruits, white flowers and freshly-cut grass.
Muscat d’ Alsace
A bright yellow colour. It is the same grape as Moscato in Italy but it is drier, with a biting acidity. It is usually served as an aperitif. A wine dominated by primary aromas. It undeniably evokes the distinctive fragrance of grapes. These intensely fruity aromas are sometimes complemented by subtle floral notes.
The wine is classically paired with Asparagus in Alsace. During the Asparagus season in Alsace, restaurants devotedly promote and serve this traditional food pairing.
Intense and Powerful
Gewürztraminer d’Alsace
Gewürztraminer is a full-bodied off-dry wine with very powerful aromas of exotic fruits like lychee, roses, and spices. It has been my calling of Alsace. Intense yellow colour tinged with gold highlights. The skin’s pinkish hue naturally influences the wine colour. A wonderful aromatic, rich and exuberant palate. A powerful, complex bouquet with an explosion of exotic fruits.
A full-bodied yet delicate wine which reveals a complex personality and dense structure, harmoniously sustained by a freshness that is nevertheless more discreet than in other Vins d’Alsace. This can be served as an aperitif wine and also pairs well with strong cheeses and spicy food. The intensity of wine is to match the intensity of flavor of the food, try this with some good Indian or Thai food. It’s a whole new world.
Pinot Gris d’Alsace
A beautiful golden yellow colour. It is not very intense but has a lot of depth in its aromatic profile; the wines reveal typically smoky notes as well as delicious aromas of dried fruit, apricot, honey, beeswax and gingerbread. The wines are restrained and take some time to reveal in the glass, once it does; it becomes undeniable.
The wines are plump, fleshy and full bodied on the palate. A fabulous wine for food with a lingering finish.
Vins d'Alsace d'Assemblage
Edelzwicker d’Alsace
The term Edelzwicker is commonly used to designate any blending of white AOC Alsace grape varieties, without any indication of percentage. The varieties can be vinified together or separately. The vintage year on labels is not obligatory.
In the past these different varieties came from the same parcel. Initially called Zwicker (blending), the prefix Edel (meaning noble) was added to show how only noble grape varieties were chosen and not any from large-scale producers.
Gentil d’Alsace
Gentil, until the 1920’s was a blending of grape varieties from the same parcel. Indeed these were often planted with different varieties which were harvested and vinified together.
Gentil has come back into popularity over these last years and is currently waiting on an Interprofessional Charter to define its production conditions.
The name Gentil is therefore reserved for AOC Alsace wines fulfilling the superior-quality blending standards. This blending must have at least 50% of Riesling, Muscat, Pinot Gris and/or Gewurztraminer, and the rest can be either Sylvaner, Chasselas and/or Pinot Blanc. Before blending, each variety must be vinified separately and must officially qualify as an AOC Alsace wine. The vintage year must appear on the Gentil label and can only be sold after being tasted and approved.
Gentil is different from Edelzwicker which is also a blended wine but which can be made using all the Alsace white wine varieties, without having any proportion indications or constraints. Moreover, Edelzwicker varieties can be vinified together or separated.
Sweet and Elegant
Vendanges Tardives
The literal meaning is Late Harvest in French. Since 1984, the classification of Vendanges Tardives on wine bottles designates great sweet wines made from grapes picked when over-ripe.
This can be added to labels of Alsace or Alsace Grands Crus appellations. The region is also ideal for later harvesting of grape varieties such as Riesling, Muscat, Pinot Gris or Gewurztraminer d’Alsace, often several weeks after the normal harvest. The wines must have high sugar content when harvested and can only be sold after ageing for 18 months.
Intense deep golden colour; nose is dominated by extremely ripe concentrated fruit like quince, starfruit, caramel and fruit jams, orange marmalade, ripe passion fruit or honeyed notes. The wine is elegant, rich and voluptuous on the palate with a lingering finish.
Sélection De Grains Nobles (SGN)
Since 1984, the SGN (selection of noble berries) classification designates sumptuous sweet wines made from carefully hand-picked grapes. They are obtained from harvesting grapes with noble rot where the driest berries are kept. This high content creates a more discreet varietal, with enhanced intensity, complexity and remarkable length. The Sélections de Grains Nobles must have a particularly high sugar content when harvested and can only be sold after ageing for 18 months.
This can be added to labels of Alsace or Alsace Grands Crus appellations.
It has an intense and deep golden colour. The nose is dominated by over-ripe and convergent notes with aromas of noble rot, honey and candied or cooked fruits. The wines are full bodied with balanced acidity and a long finish.
Red and Rosé
Pinot Noir d’Alsace Rosé
It has a pale pink colour which sometimes adopts raspberry-like glints or salmon-pink nuances. A beautiful looking wine. A fresh and fruity nose reveals aromas of small red fruits; like cranberries, strawberries, red plum etc. Fruity fresh and crisp on the palate.
Pinot Noir d’Alsace Rouge Léger
The wine is light red in colour. It offers beautiful aromas of red currants, raspberries, cranberries and Morello cherries. These are lively and elegant on palate with very fine and smooth tannins. Very easy going style of wine.
Pinot Noir d’Alsace Rouge
It has a dark and ruby red colour with garnet glints. The nose has delicious aromas of black fruits like blackberry, blackcurrant, cherry, etc with sometimes notes of vanilla. Lively acidity, light to medium bodied and light tannins.
The Bubbly’s
Cremant d’ Alsace
Exquisite bubbles rise in regular columns forming a subtle bead around the flute rim. The wine releases aromas of white fruits (apples, pears), peaches, apricots and even citrus fruits. There are also notes of dried fruit, white flowers or brioche. The wine shows fruity freshness with medium+ acidity and medium finish.
Crémant Rosé d’Alsace
A pale soft crystalline pink with sometimes salmon-pink nuances. Aromas of red berries and fruits. The palate is fresh and harmonious, revealing fruity aromas. The elegant bubbles reinforce the wine volume and structure.
In conclusion, I believe Alsatian wines are some of the most underrated wine region for most of the world. Go out give them a shot; wine styles that can be enjoyed by themselves and are excellent pairings for food.
Try producers like; Famulle Hugel, Domaine Zind Humbrecht, Doamine Marcel Deiss, Domaine Gustave Lorentz, Domaine Weinbach and many more.
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