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Breaking Down Burgundy Wine Classification ( Part 3: Southern Burgundy; Côte Chalonnaise and Mâconnais )

Writer's picture: Arnav DasArnav Das

Updated: Jan 26, 2024



Côte Chalonnaise and Mâconnais lie in the most southern part of Burgundy. The wines are still made from Chardonnay and Pinot Noir (and some Alligoté) grown on the communes of Givry, Mercurey, Rully, Montagny, Saint Véran and the world famous Pouilly-Fuissé. But, their early drinkability and generally lower prices make them extremely useful for us. They are the best quality value wines in Burgundy for immediate consumption.


The only time when “affordable burgundy” is not an oxymoron.


Côte Chalonnaise


Situated in the Saône-et-Loire province of Burgundy, south of the town of Chagny. It is composed of five key communes, each of which is an appellation. North to south, these are Bouzeron, Rully, Mercurey, Givry and Montagny.


The soils of the Côte Chalonnaise have lot of resemblance to the terroir of the Côte d’Or. The main difference is microclimate, due to the higher elevation of the Côte Chalonnaise, and the exposure to the prevailing westerly winds. The vines need more time in sunlight to ripen their grapes as required. The overall climate is continental, with relatively cold winters and warm, dry summers.


Image credit: Flatrion Wines


While there are no Grand Cru vineyards, but four of the five appellations contain exceptional Premier Cru vineyards. The appellations listed below have much to offer to the Burgundy connoisseur.


Bouzeron


Highlighted as the only appellation to make wine from the Aligoté grape. Aligoté thrives in the limestone-rich marls of Bouzeron; the lack of surface soils helps to inhibit the natural vigour of the grape variety, encouraging low yields and better wine.

In wrong hands Aligoté can be tart and acidic. But when the grape is cultivated properly with care, it produces racy and aromatic wine.


In 1979, a separate appellation was created specifically for 100% Aligoté wines: Bourgogne Aligoté de Bouzeron. One man has done much to improve the grape’s reputation. Living legend, Aubert de Villaine, the director of Domaine de la Romanée Conti, produces a delicious Aligoté wine in Bouzeron and for long has worked to make the region a success. They represent Aligoté at its finest and are probably the best Aligoté wines being made in France today.

The best examples of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay are ripe, aromatic, and fresh. They are often sold under the appellation Bourgogne-Côte Chalonnaise.


Rully


Awarded appellation status in 1939, known for producing the very best of Chardonnay’s in Chalonnaise. The commune owes its name to a Gallo-Roman lord named Rubilius, a lover of local wines.  


Its not only the still wines that shine; the region also prospers in high quality Burgundian sparkling wines since earlier 19th century. These bubblies are often blend Aligoté with Chardonnay to produce Cremant de Bourgogne. They are a vital part of the local economy with over four million bottles are made annually.


Rully’s soils date back to the Jurassic period. Limestone marls characterise most of the area under vine, while red and clay-rich soils are found at lower altitudes. Producing floral white wines and elegant, soft Pinot Noir reds. Some growers use new oak to add flavour and structure to their wines. They are sold at very attractive prices.


Mercurey


The most popular appellation of the Côte Chalonnaise, it accounts for about 40% of the region’s red wines. The best sites are found on slopes which face due south, located north of the village.

The warm microclimate and limestone-rich soils are responsible for the most structured and refined Pinot Noir in the Côte Chalonnaise. Top Mercurey wines are rich and ample, with a depth and elegance.


Givry


It is the smallest of the major appellations. The heart of the commune is a chain of southeast facing slopes. This is where you’ll find the best of Givry’s Premier Cru vineyards. Very little white wine is made in Givry, the red wines of Givry are stylish and refined, with pronounced aromas of red berries, and sour cherry.


Montagny


Montagny is known for its top-class Chardonnay. The terroir is very highly regarded; limestone rock dating back to the Jurassic period. Montagny represents Chardonnay at its most full and opulent. Stylistically, top shelf Montagny white wines offer more concentration and body than any other style of Chardonnay. The wines of Montagny are loved for their honeyed, fruit-driven style, celebrating their opulence and weight. 

The region was brought to limelight by the famed négociant Louis Latour; who invested in the commune decades ago, recognizing the unexploited potential of the area’s terroir.



Mâconnais


The Mâconnais wine region is centered on the town of Macon, which is located in southern Burgundy, just west of the Saone River. It’s the southernmost wine region of Burgundy.


Chardonnay is the backbone of wine production here, flourishing in the calcareous soils of the region. Chardonnay accounts for almost 90% of all wine made in the sub-region. There is also a little amount of red wine produced from the Pinot Noir and Gamay.


Mâconnais whites are rich and luscious, while the reds are red fruit scented and refined. The Mâconnais is home to several prosperous appellations, the region has six AOC villages: Pouilly-Fuissé, Pouilly-Loché, Pouilly-Vinzelles, Saint-Véran, Viré-Clessé, and Mâcon-Village. The most important of which are described below.



Image credit: Flatrion Wines


Mâcon


Any wine producer in the Mâconnais sub-region is entitled to use the Mâcon designation. The appellation was introduced in 1937.

Under the appellation rules, white, red, and rosé wines may be made. Produced from the Chardonnay grape, white Mâcon wines are full and rich, with notes of butterscotch, stone fruit, and a sense of minerality.


A smaller volume of red is also bottled under the Mâcon designation, either made from the Pinot Noir or Gamay. At its best, Mâcon Pinot Noir is fruit-forward and less tannic than wines from the Cote d’Or. Notes of raspberry, red cherry and blueberry are typically detected, along with ripe acidity.


Mâcon Villages


There are currently 27 villages entitled to label their wines as Mâcon Villages , provided they comply with the appellation rules relating to yields and production methods. The Chardonnay-based whites are brisk, ripe and tasty, with tropical fruit flavours and notes of vanilla in hotter vintages. A small amount of red wine is also produced, sourced from the Pinot Noir or Gamay.

There are further sub-categories to be discovered. Several villages within the Mâcon geographical zone are considered superior to others, due to the quality and consistency of their wine. Such villages are entitled to use the name Mâcon as a prefix; Mâcon Lugny, Uchizy and Prisse are regarded as some of the best.


Saint-Véran


Created in 1971, the appellation is situated in the southern end of the Mâconnais, divided into two small ‘islands’ separated from each other by the larger Pouilly-Fuissé appellation. It comprises of eight communes, including the villages of Chasselas and Saint-Amour. Unlike the Mâcon and Mâcon Villages designations, only 100% Chardonnay wines can be labelled as Saint-Véran.


Quality standards are very high in Saint-Véran, as producers are constantly seeking to prove their worth. The Chardonnay wines are some of the best value wines in Burgundy. Aromas of vanilla, citrus fruit and toast are most recognizable characteristics of Saint-Véran whites, with ripe apple and citrus on the palate. There is a lovely voluptuous quality inherent to these wines, the ideal white Burgundy for weekend enjoyment.


Pouilly-Fuissé


Pouilly-Fuissé is the jewel of the Mâconnais crown. The Pouilly-Fuissé appellation was created in 1936, that encompasses a beautiful village landscape with a spectacular series of wave-shaped limestone hills. The Pouilly-Fuissé appellation is exclusively in the Chardonnay production. The terroir is pretty much the finest in the Mâconnais: well-drained limestone soils with a sunny aspect and promising elevation.


Its most iconic landmark is the Rock of Solutré, a steep limestone escarpment with prized vineyards cultivated on its lower slopes. The north and west slopes of the La Roche Vineuse, another sub-zone within the appellation, are also priceworthy.



Until recently, Pouilly-Fuissé was an detachment in Burgundy. But in September 2020, the French authorities elevated and certified 22 climats (vineyard sites) to Premier Cru status. These single-vineyard bottlings represent the very best of the Mâconnais.

More importantly, the classification is evidence of a dramatic shift in attitudes towards the Mâconnais sub-region.  The region which was just existing is now part of conversations. Today, the reputation of the Mâconnais is rising. It’s an favourable time to stock up on a few bottles, particularly as prices still remain reasonable.

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